Somewhere this morning we left a pile of passengers on shore for a wine excursion. They will meet us by bus further down the river. The boat casts off and continues on down to Chalon-sur-Saône. We elect to sleep in and do the afternoon excursion as we have a hellish travel schedule tomorrow. There will be no sleep tonight as the load-out starts at 2:00 in the morning.
Our last day will be in beautiful Beaune, in Burgundy. Beaune, of course, is well known for world class winemaking and also for mustard. Today our tour will take us into the heart of this region, through a town called Meursault and into Beaune. We will visit an ancient winery and and the Hôtel Dieu as well as enjoy a bit of free time to shop.
We board the motorcoach for a four hour tour. We pass many fields of grains growing and eventually those fields give way to vineyards. Meursault is on a hill and all we climb we pass beautiful walled stone houses or clos.
Beaune is not a region of chateaus like the Beaujolais region. The clos have modest sized homes with walled gardens and deep scarlet roses climbing the walls.Now and then you get a peek through a break or arch in a wall down to the muted, sun drenched vines in their neat rows. Breathtaking. I’m dying to stop for photos but there is no time if we are to make the tasting.
We continue on and disembark near the town centre across from the Hotel Dieu from 1443. This incredible building was donated by a couple of wealthy patrons, as a place to care for the sick poor. Not much more than a comfortable bed, soup, and medicinal herbs were available to pretty much ease you into death.
Stained glass over the altar explained in pictorial detail what your fate would be if you did not accept Jesus. Very soothing. The hospital has been preserved as a museum and is quite remarkable especially in light of the fact that this was the only working hospital in Beaune until 1971.
Also at the Hôtel Dieu was The Last Judgement, it’s original polyptych altarpiece by the Flemish artist Rogier van der Weyden — A piece that figures prominently in the region, and also in a search and rescue mission from WWII that saw it rescued from destruction, featured in the 2012 film, Monument Men.
Next we continue on to a famous cellar to taste three wines. The beautiful stone cellar itself, musty and with low ceilings, represents some of the finest product of the region.
We taste two excellent whites, one a premier cru, a 6-year-old Pinot which they urge you to age another 14 or more years (ha!), and another specialty of the region, cassis liqueur. Of course we buy all of them.
After the tasting we have a bit of time to pop into shops. There are a few bakeries, linen shops and souvenir shops. No time to explore this gorgeous town further unfortunately. We are due back at the bus for a return to the ship and dinner.
Dinner tonight begins with a rather horrible piece of sushi for an amuse bouche. Soggy, tasteless and definitely the only bad thing we have eaten on the cruise. It was a surprise as it did not even suit the theme of the meal. It was quickly forgotten over another quite excellent and rustic meal following it.
Chicken cassoulet appetizer with puff pastry and lots of tarragon and a deep, rich Boeuf Bourguignon with buttered noodles for a main. Both are delicious and exactly the kind of rustic food we are looking for on the cruise, the kind of food that makes me want to get home and prepare some French meals. Inspiring.
Since we have changed ships and chefs, we have noted a more rustic trend that is our personal preference. Not to say the food on the Buri was not excellent. It was, it was just a little too “fancy” for a cruise in Provence for our tastes and I have to believe as I said in an earlier post that the food was pleasing to 98% of the cruisers. And once again I have to restate that it is no reflection on Viking, it is only personal preference.
After dinner we have to pack and go to bed for our 2 am wake up call and a 24 hour return home to Ottawa. Back to real life.